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Le Bon Genre: Observations sur les modes et les usages de Paris

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Le Bon Genre: Observations sur les modes et les usages de Paris

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The Hair à la Chinoise was one of the first fashion styles in the western world to have taken note from China. The look originated from France but was supposed to be representative of the styles worn in China. For some, it was the first representation of the country that they were seeing in their everyday lives. Due to the impractical nature of the hair style and the time that it took to put together, the hairstyle was mainly worn by upper class women and children. The bun at the top was supposed to be what was primarily reminiscent of the queue hairstyle worn by men in China to show their filial piety to the dynastic line.
Hair à la Chinoise 是受中国影响的西方世界最早的时尚风格之一。这种发型是在法国创造的，但应该像中国的发型一样。对于一些人来说，这是他们第一次在日常生活中看到代表中国的事物。这种发型主要是由有钱的妇女和女童穿着的，因为它花了很长时间并且使工作变得困难。这些女人放头发在他们的头面的上以类似于中国的男人，他们穿着辫子来表示对皇帝的支持。

Timeline date

1827

Publisher

La Messangère, Paris
Printed by Vassal et Essling, Paris

Contributor

Engraved by Georges Jacques Gatine (French, Caen, ca. 1773–after 1841)
Engraved by Louis-Marie Lanté (French, born 1789)

Creator

Designed by Horace Vernet (French, Paris 1789–1863 Paris)
Designed by Jean-Baptiste Isabey (French, Nancy 1767–1855 Paris)

Medium

Plates: color engravings

Spatial Coverage

Overall: 16 5/16 x 11 1/4 x 1 9/16 in. (41.5 x 28.5 x 4 cm)

Portrait of a Woman

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Portrait of a Woman

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The Hair à la Chinoise hairstyle continued to spread through western culture and made it to Russia where wealthy women continued the trend. Although Russia is geographically close to China, the Russian elite considered themselves to be more similar to their british and french counterparts. Their fashion and lifestyles mimicked that of their western friends in order to allow for a fluid transition from one society to another.
Hair à la Chinoise发型一直在西方传播，一直到俄罗斯富裕的女人穿着这种发型的地方。尽管俄罗斯离中国不远，但富裕的俄罗斯人认为他们更像英国人和法国人。他们的时尚和生活方式类似于西方的朋友，因此统治者可以轻松地一起工作。

Timeline date

1830

Creator

Mikail Ivanovich Terebenev (Russian, 1795–1866)

Medium

Ivory

Spatial Coverage

Oval, 2 7/8 x 2 1/4 in. (72 x 57 mm)

Bust of a young woman

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Bust of a young woman

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The Hair à la Chinoise style was in fact so popular that there are many art pieces depicting the hairstyle that are not even attached to any particular woman. The style is relatively easy to achieve compared to the other complicated styles of wealthy women as it only requires a few pins and a curling iron, making it quite popular for a decade.
这种Hair à la Chinoise发型非常流行，以至于有很多艺术品在展示它。 艺术甚至都不是有名的女性。与有钱女人穿着的其他发型相比，这种发型很容易做到。这种发型流行了十年，因为它只需要几个发夹和一个卷发器即可。

Timeline date

1836

Creator

Jean-Pierre Dantan (French, Paris 1800–1869 Baden-Baden)

Medium

Marble

Spatial Coverage

Height (with socle): 29 1/2 in. (74.9 cm)

Evelyn D'Alroy as Turandot in 'Turandot, Princess of China'

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Evelyn D'Alroy as Turandot in 'Turandot, Princess of China'

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As interest in China grew around the turn of the century in the 1900s, the arts began to focus on the country as a subject of interest. Watching the plays that were written during this time period was the first time that many individuals were exposed to China in any way other than simply hearing about politics. However, because of the way that most Europeans viewed individuals who are native to other continents, there were only caucasian actors and actresses who took on the roles.
1900年代初，随着欧洲人对中国的兴趣越来越大，人们开始在这个国家创作艺术品。除了在政治上听说中国之外，许多人还是第一次观看戏剧来了解中国。但是，由于大多数欧洲人对待其他大陆人的想法，只有演员的白人扮演中国人。

Timeline date

1913

Subject

Evelyn D'Alroy

Creator

Bassano Ltd (active 1901-1962), Photographers.

Medium

Whole-plate glass negative

Mrs. Yates as Mandane in ‘The Orphan of China’

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Mrs. Yates as Mandane in ‘The Orphan of China’

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While hairstyles meant to mimic those found in China quickly lost popularity, casting white actors and actresses in roles where they were to play Chinese characters did not. One of the earliest documented instances of an actress dressed as a Chinese character was in 1759 in a production of a Chinese play called The Orphan of Zhao. The actress in the image is Mary Anne Yates, the first woman to play the lead role in the adapted play.
尽管受中国影响的发型迅速失去了知名度，但让白人演员扮演中国人物很流行。白人女演员第一次扮演汉字之一是在1759年，该戏剧首次用英语表演了赵氏孤儿。图像中的女演员是Mary Anne Yates，是首位扮演最重要人物的女人。

Timeline date

1760

Creator

Tilly Kettle 1734 or 5–1786

Medium

Oil paint on canvas

Spatial Coverage

Support: 1924 × 1295 mm
frame: 2185 × 1555 × 80 mm

Access Rights

Image released under Creative Commons CC-BY-NC-ND (3.0 Unported)

Total Central Government Expenditures as Share of GDP

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Total Central Government Expenditures as Share of GDP

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Public spending (%GDP), selected OECD countries, 1900-2015
There was a rapid increase in government spending around the time of WWII across the globe. This meant that there was less attention on the consumer as global attention went towards the war. Furthermore, across the globe there was rationing as sovereign nations and their colonies attempted to derive all possible resources towards the issue at hand. Therefore, there was a dramatic decrease in spending on Chinese goods. This combined with the Cultural Revolution meant that China was essentially on pause when it came to involvement with the global economy until Reform and Opening began in 1977.
在第二次世界大战期间，全世界的政府都在花更多的钱。因此，更少的人因为担心战争而担心个人购买商品。全世界的人们也很少买东西，因为各国正试图将所有资源用于战争。所以，中国商品的购买量大大减少了。战争对经济的影响加上文化大革命，意味着中国直到1977年改革开放才全球经济产生影响。

Timeline date

1940

Contributor

Source: Roine, Vlachos, Waldenström (2009) and US Historical Tables (2016)

McCall’s Pattern

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McCall’s Pattern

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McCall's 4911 Misses Oriental Style, One Piece, Slender Skirt 1950's Dress
Interest in Chinese fashion was increasing after the US worked alongside China in World War II. Although the idea of communism was still seen as a threat, there was a newfound level of interest in the country after they proved their worth in the eyes of Americans. As such, Americans began to adopt styles common in movies depicting China to such an extent that sewing patterns were distributed nationwide.
Pictured is the cover art for the McCall pattern 4911 (Misses Oriental Style).
第二次世界大战期间中美合作之后，美国人对中国时尚产生了兴趣。尽管美国人将共产主义视为威胁，但在中国表明他们再次值得美国人关注之后，他们对该国重新产生了兴趣。因此，美国人开始穿像在电影中看到人物的衣服，这导致公司在全国范围内出售缝制图案。
图为麦考尔图案4911（东方小姐）的封面艺术。

Timeline date

1959

Title

McCall's 4911 Misses Oriental Style

Location - Physical Location

Washington, USA

Creator

McCall's

Medium

Sewing Pattern

Bruce Lee Statue on Avenue of Stars in Tsim Sha Tsui.

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Bruce Lee Statue on Avenue of Stars in Tsim Sha Tsui.

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The film industry continued to portray the Hollywood version of life in China with action movies starring characters like Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan. The films idealized martial arts, which caused the sport to grow in popularity in the US in the 1970s and 80s as children wanted to replicate the actors they saw in films. These movies were the first time that many children were seeing a Chinese character as the good guy and hero. It was contrary to what many of their parents experienced with McCarthyism and the Red Scare that had happened in Hollywood only a decade prior to Lee’s most famous film, Enter the Dragon.
电影业继续展现由李小龙和成龙主演的动作电影在中国的真实生活。这部电影使武术理想化，这使得这项运动在1970年代和80年代在美国变得越来越流行，因为孩子们希望像他们一样扮演演员。这些电影是美国许多孩子第一次将人物视为好人。这是什么他们的父母在上世纪60年代经历了在好莱坞的反共产主义的感情只有十年前，李小龙最有名的电影相反，龙争虎斗。
Flickr

Timeline date

1973

Date Created

2005

Date Submitted

August 13, 2006

Medium

Photograph of Bronze statue

Spatial Coverage

2.5 meters tall

Creator

Statue Sculpted by Cat Chon-en, Photographed by Ian Muttoo

Kung Fu Shoes

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Kung Fu Shoes

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Women's kung fu shoes in a shop in a market in Haikou, Hainan, China
The 1980’s saw the rise of the “Kung Fu Shoe” or “China Flats”. The shoe is similar to mary janes, but they have some stylistic differences and are not typically made of a leather material. The shoes generally had a very thin rubber bottom with no arch support, and the top material was made of an equally flimsy cotton or velvet. They were imported from China and could be found in most boutiques and department stores in the tri-state area with New York City selling the most due to its rapidly growing Chinese immigrant population. Furthermore, the influence of New York City fashion trends caused the shoe to gain recognition around most parts of the country.
1980年代，“功夫鞋”（又称“中国平底鞋”）开始流行。鞋子与玛丽·简（Mary jane）的鞋子相似，但它们的款式有所不同，通常不是皮革制成的。鞋子通常很薄，对脚没有帮助，鞋头是由稀薄的棉或天鹅绒材料制成的。这些鞋子是从中国进口的，可以在纽约附近各州的大小商店中找到。 由于快速增长的中国移民人口，大多数在纽约市购买。此外，纽约市时尚的影响使这双鞋在美国各地流行起来。

Timeline date

1980

Type

Photograph

Medium

Rubber, Faux Velvet, Polyester, and Nickle

Creator

Unknown

Contributor

Anna Frodesiak

Production of Apparel in China from 1970 to 2015 (in Billion Pieces).

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Production of Apparel in China from 1970 to 2015 (in Billion Pieces).

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Graph made using data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China
President Reagan's attempts at decreasing textile imports from China failed as production of apparel tripled in the 1990s, and then increased by more than 6 times that rate by 2000. While China was operating as the producer in this circumstance, it was the beginning of tipping the scales in China’s favor. The US would soon be dependent on China for their production needs, thereby boosting their economy.
里根总统试图减少从中国进口的纺织品数量。 然而，他没有成功，因为中国制造的衣服数量在1990年代增长了两倍，然后到2000年增长了六倍。当中国在这种关系中制造产品时，这是中国开始加强对这种关系的控制的开始。美国人很快就会需要中国为其生产产品，这使中国对美国经济拥有更大的实力，并改善了中信经济。

Timeline date

1970

Creator

Statista

Reagan Missive

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Reagan Missive

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The United States had been appreciating the low cost of clothing and textiles from China so much that it was reducing the amount of products made in the US, which had a significant impact on the US economy. With the ongoing recession, unemployment was already a major concern for the nation and any outsourcing of labor would only exacerbate the problem. Additionally, Reagan did not like the idea of his ideological rival, the communist state of China, potentially increasing their economic power and consequently increasing their world influence.
美国一直享受着中国服装和纺织品的低廉价格，以至于美国开始生产越来越少的服装，这对美国经济产生了很大的负面影响。由于美国经济已经表现不佳，人们已经担心失去工作的人数众多，因此将工作转移到其他国家只会使问题变得越来越严重。此外，里根总统不喜欢他的竞争对手共产主义中国可能增加其经济实力，从而增加其对世界的影响的想法。

Timeline date

1982

Creator

Ronald Reagan

Bibliographic Citation

United States Executive Office of the President. [Textile Negotiations]., 1982. ProQuest. Web. 21 Jan. 2021.

Clothing factory in Dongguan, China

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Clothing factory in Dongguan, China

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Manufacturing still occurs in China to this day but it is not nearly the imbalanced relationship that it once was. China does not simply make goods for the American consumer at a lower price, now there is significant trade back and forth of both American and Chinese goods. As such, China has a much larger influence over the American economy than ever before.
今天，中国仍然制造商品，但与美国的关系并不像以前那样不平衡。中国不仅以低廉的价格为美国人生产商品，现在还有大量的阿克里坎人和中国人的商品贸易。 因此，中国对前者的影响更大。

Timeline date

2004

Access Rights

"Clothing factory in Dongguan, China" by Edwin Lee (Fallout Media)is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0

Infographic Depicting China's Economy Over 70 Years

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Infographic Depicting China's Economy Over 70 Years

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70 Years of Economic Development and Policy In The People's Republic of China
China has had an enormous growth in GDP since the Cultural Revolution. As such, their influence on a global scale has grown astronomically. Following WWII but prior to Reform and Opening, China was not considered much of a threat by the Western world, but their growing influence on the world economy has allowed them to become a much louder voice when it comes to global issues. Since the acquisition of Hong Kong and Macau, that influence has only grown. In fact, China’s GDP continued to rise during the 2008 global recession when other nations stumbled and saw increases in public spending.
自文化大革命以来，中国的GDP增长了很多。因此，中国在世界事务中的影响力增长了很多。第二次世界大战后但在改革开放之前，西方并不认为中国是威胁，但它们对经济的增加增长的影响已导致其他国家在全球问题上更多地听取它们的意见。自从再次控制香港和澳门以来，中国在世界上的影响力越来越大。2008年，世界其他地区正在亏损，而其他国家的政府不得不为此付出巨资，中国的GDP下去增长。

Timeline date

1953

Ma Ke Exhibit at Victoria and Albert Museum

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Ma Ke Exhibit at Victoria and Albert Museum

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Fashion in Motion / Ma Ke Wuyong behind the scenes
Ma Ke was the first fashion designer from mainland China to be honored with an invitation to show her collection at Paris Fashion week. She also created a haute couture line using upcycled fabrics that were previously deemed unusable. The line was displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum in 2008. The museum wanted to display designs from a Chinese designer as they forecasted the impact that they would have on the fashion industry in the coming years. Unfortunately, while Ma Ke’s designs made waves in Paris they were not enough to solidify her name in the long term on the international fashion scene.
马可是中国大陆第一位请在巴黎时装周上展示其服装的时装设计师。 她还用别人认为无法使用的可重复使用的面料制成高级时装。她的衣服于2008年在维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆展示。该博物馆想展示一位中国设计师，是因为他们认为中国设计师将很快改变时尚产业。尽管马可的衣服在巴黎导致了人们的注意，但当今世界上大多数时尚人士并不知道她的名字。

Timeline date

2008

Vera Wang CCTV Interview

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Vera Wang CCTV Interview

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CCTV America interviews designer Vera Wang about running her company
Vera Wang began her career in the fashion industry with a job at Vogue in 1970 and did not leave until 1982 when she had been a longstanding senior editor. From there she became a design director at Ralph Lauren for 2 years before eventually beginning her own line. Since then, she has become a household name with her beautiful wedding dresses and red carpet gowns. Wang also capitalized on the idea of making dresses for various price points in order to make her designs more accessible and increase her number of revenue streams.
Wang frequently discusses the influence of her Chinese heritage on her work, and was able to break out onto the scene as one of the first Asian American designers to become a household name in the United States. She has paved the way for the other Chinese designers who are eager to spread their art across the western hemisphere.
王薇薇（Vera Wang）于1970年开始在时尚界工作，当时在Vogue任职，直到1982年她担任长期编辑才离开。此后，她在拉尔夫·劳伦（Ralph Lauren）担任了两年的首席设计师，然后开始制作自己的衣服。从那时起，她以她美丽的婚纱和着名人物的礼服而成为每个人都知道的名字。王还开始制造可以以不同价格出售的礼服，以便更多的人可以购买她的设计，并且可以赚更多的钱。
王经常谈论华人对她的设计的影响，并能成为每个人都知道这个名字的第一批亚裔美国人设计师之一。 她使西方的其他中国设计师成为可能。

Timeline date

2015

Wall Street Journal Interview with Guo Pei

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Wall Street Journal Interview with Guo Pei

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Meet Guo Pei, China's First Haute Couture Designer
Guo Pei is an established and extremely respected designer in China who has recently been breaking into the western haute couture design scene. Her most recent display of talent was with a gorgeous gold dress worn by Rihanna at the Met Ball. The dress had many small elements honoring traditional Chinese culture.
Guo Pei also has a line of wedding dresses that is very famous in China as they are a mix of traditional and contemporary styles. She is also making her designs accessible to all price points so that those unable to purchase haute couture can still wear her designs.
郭培是中国一位备受推崇的设计师，最近因其高级时装而在西方导致了注意。她最近的设计是蕾哈娜（Rihanna）在大都会舞会（Met Ball）穿着的漂亮的金色连衣裙。这件衣服以许多小细节尊重中国传统文化。郭培还设计了许多在中国非常有名的婚纱，因为它们融合了传统和现代风格。她希望所有人都能穿到她的设计，因此她以许多不同的价钱卖它们。

Timeline date

2015

Caroline Hu Spotlight and Explanation of the BoF China Prize

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Caroline Hu Spotlight and Explanation of the BoF China Prize

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Inside the BoF China Prize: Ep 2 - Couture Week
Caroline Hu is the winner of the BoF China Award. The award was created to help designers from the Chinese mainland gain exposure on the fashion scene on a global scale. She is a new and upcoming designer who has not had much experience in the industry on a broad scale but soon will with the support of one of the world’s leading fashion magazines behind her. She is currently based out of New York but maintains a presence and contacts in China. Her specialty is in haute couture, the most luxurious branch of fashion.
胡颖琪赢了BoF China Prize。 该奖项旨在帮助中国大陆设计师在时装界使注意。胡颖琪是一位新设计师，她在该行业没有丰富的经商经验，但很快就成功了，因为世界上最大的时尚达人之一正在帮助她。她现在在纽约工作，但在中国也有很多业务。她尤其好做设计高级时装，这是最昂贵的服装。

Timeline date

2019

Huishan Zhang 2019 Fashion Show

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Huishan Zhang 2019 Fashion Show

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HUISHAN ZHANG - #GTBankFashionWeekend​ 2019 Runway show
Huishan Zhang is an up and coming designer who was born and raised in China. He then got both his bachelors and masters at a very prestigious fashion school in London. Zhang originally trained in haute couture at Dior, which allowed him to gain the very best training the fashion world has to offer. He has been fortunate enough to begin his own clothing line. The line has been such a success that it now retails out of Bergdorf Goodman and online retailer Net-A-Porter.
张卉山是一位新设计师，他出生在中国，也在中国成长。他去了伦敦的一所非常著名的大学学习时装。张首先在Dior学习高级时装。 这是他可以从中学到的最好的公司。他成功了，开始卖自己的衣服。 他的衣服在Bergdorf Goodman出售，在Net-A-Porter网上出售。

Timeline date

2019

China's Tariffs on US Goods

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China's Tariffs on US Goods

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China's average tariff rate is climbing on US goods and falling for the rest of the world
The United States has made it abundantly clear that it views China as a major threat to the US economy. As such, there were many strict tariffs imposed on Chinese goods under the Trump administration in an attempt to force the Chinese people to submit to American will. However, instead China decided to place growing tariffs on american goods, cutting into the US economy’s revenue wherever possible. As the Chinese economy has grown so rapidly, it now has the ability to push back when Western nations challenge it.
美国已经清楚表示，美国认为中国视为对美国经济的威胁。因此，特朗普总统对中国商品征收了许多高额关税，因为他试图让中国同意做美国想做的任何事情。相反，中国决定对美国商品征收更高的关税，这对美国经济产生了重大影响。中国的经济增长使其能抵抗西方国家。

Timeline date

2018

Creator

Chad P. Bown

Contributor

Sources: Updates on August 23, 2019, from Brown, Jung, and Zhang (2019). Constructed by the author with data from Trade Map and Market Access Map (International Trade Center, marketanalysis.intracen.org) and China's Ministry of Finance's announcements

Graph Depicting China's Role in the Luxury Goods Market

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Graph Depicting China's Role in the Luxury Goods Market

Image caption

Charting the Rise and Fall of the Luxury Goods Market
China has slowly but surely been taking over the luxury goods market. While the market has grown significantly in the last thirty years, no country has had a bigger impact on it than China. No longer burdened with the idea that in order to be a good Chinese citizen you must struggle in life, the Chinese consumer is free to spend at their will and make as much money as possible. In order to compete with Western style icons, the wealthy Chinese must purchase luxury, name brand goods to change their status from a growing fashion influence into one of the most prominent.
在过去的几年中，中国一直在增加他们花在贵商品上的钱。在过去的三十年中，世界其他地区也一直在购买更贵的商品，但是没有哪个国家的购买量能超过中国的人。中国人不再认为您必须努力成为一个好公民，因此，现在中国人可以赚很多钱，花很多钱。为了获得西方人对时尚的尊重，中国人必须从高端品牌那里买同样贵的商品，才能将自己的地位提升到时尚程度最高的国家。

Timeline date

2019

Graph Depicting China's Share of Online Sales in The Luxury Market

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Graph Depicting China's Share of Online Sales in The Luxury Market

Image caption

Share of Online Sales in The Luxury Market in China from 2015 to 2020
China has been incredibly successful in growing their share of the luxury market due to Apps and websites such as Tmall by Alibaba. The platforms allow Chinese citizens access to exclusive products that would otherwise have to be purchased in store. Additionally, many luxury brands have stores in Hong Kong but not on the mainland, which means that the goods are much more accessible online. Furthermore, China’s increased share of the luxury market reveals that Chinese citizens have an increased disposable income. It is also important to acknowledge that this increased influence is with the added cost increase of the tariff on US goods.
由于阿里巴巴的APP和网站如天猫上购物，中国成功地扩大了对贵的商品市场的影响。这些平台使中国人更容易他们要不然原本必须在商店购买的产品。此外，许多非常昂贵的品牌专卖店有中国香港，但不是大陆，这意味着许多人只能买的产品线上。此外，中国对昂贵商品市场的影响力日益增强，这意味着越来越多的中国人有钱可以花在不需要的东西上。这更加有声有色因为由于对美国商品征收高贵的关税，其中许多商品甚至更加贵。

Timeline date

2020

Creator

Bain & Company
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