Jane Bigelow Diary, 1859-1860
Title
Jane Bigelow Diary, 1859-1860
Description
The diaries of John Bigelow's wife, Jane Tunis Poultney Bigelow, make up the majority of the Diaries and Journals series. Just as respected and loved as her husband, Jane was an important figure in the New York literary and social scene. Her diaries detail their life and travels.
Date
July 22, 1859 - January 31, 1860
Creator
Bigelow, Jane Tunis Poultney
Identifier
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transcription
[cover]
Mrs. John P. Bigelow
Thun, Switzerland
July 12. 1859.
July 22. 1859
to
August. 31. 1860
Inclusive 36 17 pieces
fanny Thurs - July 22d 1859 -
We left Paris last Saturday Morning July 16th;
all invalids somewhat except Mrs- B- + the new bonne [?] Marguerite
I did not feel well enough to enjoy the journey to Basle where we arrived about ten in the evening [sentences crossed out] very comfortable rooms at the Three Brigs directly upon the Rhine, of which we had a fine view from our chain [?] Lee [?] windows The moonlight enhanced the beauty of the scene; but the profusion of wet dropers [?] suspended from the windows did not - Sunday afternoon we took a beautiful drive & I was delighted with the rilasueposed [?], their architecture &c - The heiss [?] style of building so far I prefer to say I have seen abroad - the houses look more like homes - the people too have a more honest and trustting [sic] expression but their costume sadly disappoints me - I think it frightful. Our first Sunday spent in Europe in
a Protestant country was refreshing ---
so different from anything we had
seen in France or Italy - Scarcely a
store was open & both streets & people
looked as if they recognized a Sabbath.
Next morning we walked about &
visited a beautiful church - at 2 1/2
took the cars for Berne, where at 10
o'clock we were shown almost to the
attic of a very clean hotel - We took
an hour's drive before leaving the next
afternoon & Mr B-called on [illegible] our
Minister - We went to see some bears.
To me it was not an interesting visit,
but the children were delighted. It was a
beautiful two hours ride in the cars to this
place, where we have a parlor & large cham
-bers on the ground floor - at the Bellevue
Hotel - the grounds are superb & very
extensive - commanding fine views from
every point - the snow clad Alps in the
distance are an unfailing source - of
wonder & admiration to me, as well as the exquisite cultivation of the country
beneath.
Saturday - We have been to call on the
Thurbers who are at a pension adjoin
-ing. I was introduced to a Mrs Halsey
whom I liked much a Mrs La[----]
& another Mrs Somebody, neither of
whom interested me. Young
Butler & Warwick who were at Mrs
Kelsons with us, arrived here last
night, the house is as full as it can
hold, but no one whom I am really
glad to see. The Borones from Staten
Island, people I have always rather
avoided - [illegible], young Porter
a nephew of "Spirit of the [---]nes" ---
a very gentlemany [sic] young German
Baron - W. H. Russell (the American
correspondent of the London Times)
& family - Mr & Mrs Megnien [sic] of
Paris, the latter an authoress -
Constantly showering the last two
days --- Grace [illegible words] & talking to
herself the other day --- "God comes first, then the angels, (then facing me)
which comes next Mama, the preachers
or the people, I forget. So we had a
thorough discussion of the subject.
Monday July .
A letter from Mother & Han today,
Mrs Morgan & Tom at Spa. Rainy
day again & so cold that we are obliged
to have fire.
[Transcriber's note: The remainder of the page consists of two columns, the right column containing the handwritten text transcribed below and the left a pasted-in (?) printed clipping of a poem from a newspaper or other publication, transcribed subsequently.]
Interlaken Friday August
A few days before us left then
we were surprised & delighted
by a visit from Tom - he
came one afternoon & left
the next, making the children
happy by giving each a toy
& devoting most of his time
to entertaining them. We
came here last Monday
in the noon boat - I was
so glad to get away, for
many reasons worth remem
bering but not writing. We
made a trip to L.
[Transcriber's note: Printed poem]
Only a Picture.
Only a picture-and is that all?
Only a picture upon the wall;
The smile so beaming, the cheek so bright,
The eye so dancing with sunny light!
I almost fancy my baby boy
Is springing to me in his pride and joy.
But 'tis only a picture upon the wall,
A silent picture, and that is all!
Only a lock of silken hair
Lying alone in its casket there!
Where is the head that in sportive glee,
Was wont to toss so careless and free?
The baby head that upon my breast
So lovingly nestled each night to rest?
Only a lock of its silken hair
Is lying alone in its casket there.
Only a shoe that is soiled and torn,
But where is the foot that shoe has worn?
The darling foot so dimpled and small,
That made music so merry in chamber and hall.
O, to catch of that little step one sound,
How wildly now would my pulses bound!
But there's only a shoe that is soiled and torn-
The foot comes no more that that shoe has worn.
Only these relics-and nothing more?
Can naught to our arms the lost restore?
Must we hopeless yearn as the years go by
For the bounding step and the beaming eye,
And of all that beauty and light and grace
So fondly cherished retain no trace,
Save these silent relics?---"O, nevermore
Will the grave to our arms the lost restore."
O rove [sic] for love when from its store
It points to these tokens and nothing more!
When the vacant hall and the silent stair
But echo the groans of its wild despair;
And from all the voices in earth and sky,
Comes back no word to its wailing cry,
Save the mournful echo---"O, nevermore
Will the grave to thy arms the lost restore."
O joy for love when it yearns no more
For that which the grave cannot restore!
When it upward stretches its drooping wings,
And in darkness and sorrow still sweetly sings
Of the brightness and bliss of that better home,
Where the lost are found and no partings come;
O joy for love, when its priceless store
There safe is garnered forevermore! the day after our arrival with the Partons
& Mrs Russell & Romaine who came from
there in the early boat to join us - Those
of the party who were hungry breakfasted at
L- and at 10 some of the party were on
horseback & Miss Parsons in the chaise
à porteur & I & baby in another on our
way to ascent a mountain where we
enjoyed a superb view & quite a decent
dinner - The ascent was not fatiguing
& well worth accomplishing - but the
descent was more grand than I fancied
& almost frightened me to death. I held
myself in the chair with one hand & to keep
baby on my lap with the other was an effort
that almost broke my legs as well as arms -
I was thankful when I was dropped at
L- & seated comfortably in a carriage on
our way home again - Jenny was good
as possible all the while, she slept almost
the entire time & cried not at all - A
man who had been a guide among
these mountains more than 30 years said
he had never seen so young a traveller on them. We were back at the "Hotel Inter
laken" to take tea with the children & I was
glad to go to bed almost as soon as they did.
Day before [Transcriber's note: Previous two words inserted with caret] Yesterday we walked up to what they term
the Pavilion with the Mordecais & some
others --- & had one of the prettiest views
imaginable. Yesterday morning I walked
to the boat with Mr B--- & saw him start
for his months tour which I hope will
be as pleasant as he anticipated. The Carring
-tons called almost as soon as I returned
to offer their services and attentions during
Mr B's absence --- but I shall not accept
many of them as newly married people
always prefer to be without a third party ---
I went to say goodbye to the Mordecais
whom I am truly sorry to lose, & then
drove with baby & the Platts to Grindel
wald --- dined at a pretty little hotel near the
Glaciers & returned to take early tea with
the children. Miss Bell from Tennessee called
[illegible] as I was walking through the village ---
She was with a large party who were to
leave in the morning --- I also met Amelia Sturges on her way up to see me, her father was
unwell which would detain them here a day or
two. I am suffering dreadfully with face ache -
Saturday August 6th.
Grace & I each took our first donkey ride
this morning with Mr. & Mrs. Caerington to
the Castle of Unspunnen the scene of Byron's
Manfred - it is now merely a large
circular stone ruin overlooking a most
exquisite valley & in face of a most imposing range of mountains - the path to it through
a thick woods & this lovely valley was as
romantic as the most ardent lores of
Byron could desire & it was easy to
people the vicinity with the imaginary
spirit which so tormented the [illegible] fortunate
Manfred. But all this could not dispel
my face ache & since my return I have
been almost distracted with it. The Parsons
all left this morning early, impatient to
get settled at Geneva. Mr Romaine called
to see me yesterday & the storm kept him
to dinner our Roman consul also favored
us - I went with Mr P to the Thersal [?] an hours in the evening, it was a dull affair, fine rooms but almost empty. Tuesday August 9th. Went to church with Sunnees [?] friend Beaiss [?] Sunday in the afternoon he coached with us to the Richliore [?] & transed me to go further, but I declined - He & Mr Carrington made an excursion to Murren (the highest village in Switzerland)yesterday & Mrs C devoted most of her time to me I was still suffering with tooth ache & am very little better today. I have been reading "Pilgrims of the Rhine" and "Manfred" Old Mrs Biggs, the Goulds & Mr Hentworth have called. Wednesday April 10th A long walk with all the children this morning - charming view & not too fatiguing to get to it. Read again Mr B's journal that I received yesterday & wrote to him this afternoon - Strolled about a little with the Carringtons towards night & am going to bed very early - My eyes ache from crying - this face ache has dispirited me completely & I have been able to accomplish nothing since Mrs B left. Thursday Aug 11th.
Grace is 7 years old today --- I have done all
for her pleasure that I could, first had 3
donkeys brought to the door & gave each
of the children an hour's ride - Poult was
frightened at first, but Jonny not at
all. Margaret baby & I followed on
behind - next we took a carriage
with a particularly amiable coach
man who allowed first one & then the
other to take the reins, & on our return to
the hotel I devoted an hour to story telling
which I think pleased them best of all - I have
been reading "The Prisoner of Chillon" since -
& the little ones are playing below.
Friday Aug 12th. Dr Bethe[---] called on me this
morning & came back to dinner - he will
bring his wife tomorrow for a few days -
I am so weary of this place and hope to get
away next week - The Dr told me his first
public recitation was the Prisoner of Chillon
and he had a decided success. We have
another heavy shower this afternoon - dull
sort of [illegible deletion] weather for the country. Saturday Aug 13th. Called at Goulds this morn
-ing - Miss Sarah sang "Why do I weep for thee"
& another that I liked very much but I
forget the name, shopped a little afterwards,
walked a little with Mrs Carrington &
this afternoon returned the Biggs's call,
but did not see them. Raining hard, so
that I can have neither my ride or walk
as anticipated.
Tuesday - Aug 16th - Received Mrs B's journal
yesterday from [empty space left in line] & found it very
interesting. Some people from Frankfort asked
me to go to the Falls of Giesbach with them,
but I did not care about it. I packed up, hoping
to get away today, but Mrs C is complaining & in
bed, & when I paid her a visit late last
evening, they had determined not to leave
before tomorrow. My German friends
had seen a good deal of Sophie Joy [?] & were
entirely disgusted with her - thought she
was a mass of affectation & [---]olly devoted
to the attentions of the other sex - she treated
ladies very rudely &c; which I think probable -
though the red headed woman who told me this, looks like a demon herself, & I should
attach but small value to her words.
Mrs --- & her sister seem very excellent
people & their boys remarkably fascinating -
the father I like too, he is decidedly hand-
-some with fine address; but rather a more
gallant husband than I should fancy.
There was a certain beautiful resignation
in the face of his wife that told me a
history - she seemed a most affectionate
Mother but I fancy ^is
much neglected by her husband. The Gould's
sent up for me to
go to the Kursal about 9 o'clock - staid
about an hour & talked with the best-
looking Man I have seen abroad - but
altogether too French for my taste - what
ideas they must have of women! that
old fool at H[---] used to talk much
in the same way. He asked to take me
home, but I pleaded my previous en
--gagement & the enchanting Gould, -
made his Sister unspeakably happy
by bequeathing this youth to her - he is
in the train of their princesse & they attach enormous importance to him. They have
also introduced me to an old bachelor
Gardiner with filthy nails & fearfully John
Bully face & figure & another Father
Savage a jolly old Irish priest; whose
kindly eyes entirely subdue the effect of his
name. It seems they were both rather ardent
in their expressions of me; & yesterday morn
-ing old G told a friend that I had sa
-luted him in passing with a smile
that was worth a hundred guineas
to his heart." Dr Bethune & family arrived
at the pension next us last evening; his
poor wife, can she enjoy this dragging
around the world? Hazeltine looks
horribly --- I imagine he drinks gambles
& does every bad thing imaginable - he has
too [sic] me so utterly worthless an expression, &
to see B[-----] Biggs in his embrace most
of the evening, entirely disgusted me with her,
I think she is about as fast a character as
I have ever met - Alice has lots of beaux
they tell me; but has some desease [sic] of the
womb & no wish to marry at present. I have spent $20 this morning in muslins -
raining hard & this is the darkest place
on a dark day that I have ever known
any thing about. I met an English clergy
man here the other day from whom I
received a note yesterday enclosing a few
little tracts for the children - he wanted
to interest me in a lad who had gone to
America to seek his fortunes & was a very
deserving youth.
Lucerne - Friday Aug 19th. Left Interlaken
Wednesday at noon with the Carringtons - nom
-inally under their care, but in reality they
were under mine - for neither spoke a word
of French, & every thing that had to be done
during the day either Margaret or I had to do.
I bought tickets for all the party while she had
the baggage weighed - & so on we managed
to get along - we soon exhausted our bread & bottle
of water & could get nothing more nourishing
until we reached this place at nearly 10 o'clock
We went to the "English House" with the C's -
it seemed too late to hunt up a Pension with
-out a gentleman, but yesterday morning we paid our bill of F30 - 40 & established
ourselves at a quiet little "Pension Suter" -
with a nice garden for the children
extending to the "Hotel Suiss" - beautiful
view of the lake & in every respect a desirable
situation - all along the road further
without the town there are boarding
houses commanding superb views; with
beautiful grounds &c - but here we are
central & it is almost like having our own
house - for there are but two other ladies
here; hideous Germans who speak French
with me, but whom I really dislike to look
at, they are so offensively ugly. I went with
the C's last evening to see the Cathedral, &
burying ground & we came home at
sundown by the side of the lake - a
charming walk. I strolled about the town
earlier in the afternoon with nurse & child
-ren, went into one or two churches &
examined the old bridge with pictures -
wrote to Mr B. at Berlin & to Mrs Morgan,
at Albany. The children are getting on
very well - thankful truly do I feel. Friday Directly after breakfast sauntered out with the children - me & Mr Bemiss & who proposed showing me around & with all the young ones at out heels we walked about the town till 12 1/2 - I am not astonished that Murray thinks the Monument to the Swiss guards the most appreciate in Europe - I have seen nothing of the kind I like so well. Another sculpture or painting has impressed me so much - the great solid rock towering above city surrounded by its graceful forest trees - the exquisite shade & seclusion of the entire spot - the old guard in his uniform - crimson & white - all combined make up an effective picture that is well worth seeing: the great Lion - the feature of it ^ the most remarkable - by Thos Waldden. A letter from Mrs Russell yesterday - Alberta is better. Lucerne Saturday Aug 21st. A [illegible] sail up the lake this morning with my little flock - since then I have written to Annie & Mrs Gould - heard Grace her lesson & am ready for my afternoon walk. The General left this morning & for myself it is great [g-in] - for now I have this cheerful little parlor & the piano at my own disposal - & no one to entertain at table but the children. Today baby is two months old; she has improved wonderfully since we left [Th--n?] & takes notice a great deal; dear darling little daughter - Heidelberg - [illegible] Muller near the Castle overlooking the Rhine, but otherwise a very stupid sort of place - the town is clean & cheerful looking - the Castle & grounds are perfect in their way - one can wander about for miles in them - find some new enchantments at every step - this is by far the most fascinating ruin I have seen in Europe - the [illegible] in every direction are pleasant & the streets delightfully shaded by long rows of trees. He met Miss Hyall who insisted on one going at once home with her, & we found Mama in the third story of a very pretty house on one of the best streets. They gave me a very attractive idea of German housekeeping or room keeping - much more cosy & comfortable than all the glass & gilding of the French, and above all more hospitable. Miss H _ is what we Yankees call a smart agreeable girl, and decidedly stylish looking. She is very anxious to find a situation as governess in Paris & I hope to be able to assist her - she would accept 200 a year & travelling expenses paid, in a family where she was entirely as "one of them." I was pleased with the grave yard attached to St Peters Church. - It looked as if tended by loving hands, & less gloomy than almost any place of the kind I have ever seen - while there I read Annie's letter that Mr B - had just found at our bankers - it told me of Aunt Eliza Tunis's death for which A letter from Nan received at Lucerne had somewhat prepared me. I have heard none of the particulars but that she suffered much towards the close - Yesterday I wrote to Beckie, also to Manea [?], who I know will feel this loss deeply & to Mrs Paine who has lost her oldest child Vaginia [?], as lovely & promising a girl of fifteen years as I ever saw. By the paper I learn of Ben Lee's [?] Heath [?] & also Annie [--mett's] - MEB knew her many years ago, & I have had a limited but pleasant acquaintance with her since my marriage. We left Lucerne Tuesday Morning Aug 31st & reached Baden Baden near 9 o'clock at night - Met the Carringtons at the Hotel Victoria & next morning we strolled around the town together & drove through the famous Black Forest to the ruin Ebersteinburg.
On the [-ond] met the Browns of P. as dressy, as affected & tiresome as ever. They came after dinner to see us as did also the Townsends who had seen our names on the list of strangers - We spent a part of the evening at the Kursaal - met Gould Hoyt & Mr Vail - took another walk next morning & left at 11 1/2 for Heidelberg - We were there before 3 o'clock, by the Gould's advice at a stupid little pension Muller [?], near the Castle it's only attraction. We left Lucerne for Baden Tuesday night arrived at Hotel Victoria 8 in the evening - First thing next morning strolled along the shady avenue leading to the Kursaal Where we were amused examining the various booths & then went into the gambling rooms & found the tables well surrounded even at that early hour. There were some bold vulgar looking women & some very beautiful - but all more or less powdered & painted & dressed most expensively.The most exquisite little hats with plumes - & white morning robes elaborately trimmed & some in superb silks; ears fingers & arms glittering with diamonds - & I was told that these Jewels & fine clothes were pretty sure to belong to women of the lowest clas -actee [?]. some of them played with great success & won piles of gold the short time we stood by. To me it was most painful to see even those already degraded creatures indulge in an occupation so vile & unwomanly. All the while at Baden I had Mrs Gray's beautiful story of the Gambler's life By Mead [?] - but I failed to recognize in any of my own that I met the least resemblance to the English Sisters. May & Maud Sutherland - I amid the many who gathered around the roulette tables I looked in vain for the Authors frail but fascinating hero - Harry Percy - There was one tall Englishman with fair wavy hair & & blue eyes, also somewhat resembled him. I was surprised by a call (one indeed two) from the Hawkshurst Townsends - the Browns also favor'd us - & Gould Hoyt & Mr Vail we met one evening at the Kursaal. On our way to Wiesbaden Saturday September we stopped a few hours at the Hotel Angleterre at Frankfurt - & of said Hotel I would warn all travellers - for the land-lord charged us just double for our Dinner
what it was worth &c what we had engaged to pay for it.
Amsterdam Friday Sep 10th - We were delighted with Wiesbaden - its charming shady walks & [--ires], gay shops & superb Kursaal, where as a general thing a more respectable class of people congregate than at Baden. The finest band I ever heard played three times a day at the Kursaal & I shall long remember the exquisite waltz that woke me from my slumbers last Sunday Morning at about seven o'clock - an inexpressible bore if the music had not been so very fine. we took a bath each day from the "Roch [?] bunnen" in the Hotel Rose" where we were staying, but I declined to drink of the waters in spite of their rumor'd resemblance to chicken broth for which I have a decided penchant. We drove to the Greek Chapel built at great cost by the duke of Nassau to contain the remains of his first wife & Russian princess - the effigy lay Hopfgarten [?] in marble Murray says is something extra - but I am a trite tired of such displays over either the living or dead & take very little pleasure in seeing them. An hours drive took us from Weisbaden to where we met the boat & [a--t] down the Rhine to Bonn in order to see the most interesting part of the river. I confess to
some disappointment as we passed houses Castle Rock or crag - each with some romantic legend attached to it = "Ehrenbreitstein with her shatter'd wall" Collentz with her "small & simple pyramid" to the brave young General Marceau whom Byron so beautiful eulogized - The Castled crag of Drachenfels which from my earliest school days I have believed to be one of the most enchanting spots upon earth - Bishop [Hotta's] [ton--] & Southey's ballad before my eyes - all failed to move me - I could not feel within me that I was looking upon anything half so beautiful or half so interesting in any respect as me own North [?] Hudson with its banks covered with elegant comfortable homes, whose legends if written would perhaps be more improving & a hundred times more romantic than all the lies & poetry that has been scribbled & sold on the subject of King Rhine _ the old humbug. We looked around Bonn before night & bought some stockings for myself at 30 cts a pair & some for the children at 12 1/2 - We staid at the Hotel Royal a poor a table as I have seen anywhere - Sour milk & horrible chocolate - bad bread & butter too. The grounds were beautiful -sloping down to the river & very extensive - There was a Monkey tied up a tree who got hold of Grace's arm & gave her a pretty hard scratch. The afternoon next day we took the cars for Duseldorf [sic] - went to the Hotel Europe & had comfortable rooms & supper - walked about & found it like all the towns in Germany - cheerful & neat with shady walks & parks - Thursday we were at the depot in good time for the Turelock [?] express to Amsterdam but in our haste got into the wrong train & were carried back to Cologne - Went to see the Cathedral & bought a box of Narinal [?] Cologne by advice of the guide who I afterwards found had imposed upon me & taken me to one of the many "pretenders to the name." We took an 11 o'clock train to Wesel a pretty little Prussian town with a Hotel less expensive & better than almost any we have found abroad. Delicious brown bread & butter & chocolate - everything good of its kind & the proprietor a gentlemany sensible sort of fellow.
The sun is in the west
The stars are on the sea,
Each kindly hand I've prest, [sic] -
And now farewell to thee!
Our cup of parting's done -
Tis the darkest I can sip,
And I've pledged them, everyone,
With my heart & with my lip - Amsterdam - Hotel Trelen - Sep 11th
More like home - Philadelphia particularly - the delicious bread & butter - the India [--tle] china & deep old times blue & white [-octelle] sets - the venetian blinds - & profusion of brass headed nails in the chairs & sofas - the perfect cleanliness of the streets & houses - the tremendous scrubbing & cleaning that I have witnessed this Saturday morning has [ap--ted] to make the resemblance more striking between this substantial quaint Dutch city & that of our Quaker ancestors. We reached here yesterday in time for dinner at the table de Cote at 4 & I tasted for the first time since leaving America a well cooked piece of roast beef - Today at breakfast I had with my chocolate buns almost as good as Mame Widderfields - Penn's city again brought to mind - we took a valet de place at 9 1/2 & went through the King's palace equal to anything I saw in Italy & superior in some respects for it had an air of comfort in some of the rooms entirely unknown to the South of Europe - the view from the Tower like all other views from high places that I have ever seen did not repay me for the fatigue of getting up to it. We went to see the house Rembrandt once owned & lived in - with his name over the door - & a very fine statue of him erected in 1851 - In the Museum we saw a great many fine pictures, nearly all of the Dutch School - the finest I ever saw was by Van der Heist "The City Guard of Amsterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of Munster, 1648 - altogether a collection of the most life like & expressive portraits imaginable.
Gerard Dou's "Night School" is remarkably fine - I had frequently seen copies of it - there was a beautiful shepherdess - by I forget whom - & some landscapes very good -
Some copies of Titian, Rubens & Raphael - We drove through the best street for private residences & to the fashionable promenade - "long & shady" - thence to the Zoological Garden where we were very much interested - we left baby & nurse & Poult in the carriage & took Sonny & Grace with us - Yesterday Poultney completed his fourth year -
Sunday Sep 12th. Went to the theatre last evening & not understanding a word of what was said found the play a great bore - Came out & found the children all getting on very well & after nursing baby went back again to see the ballet - A French [dans--use],agile & accomplished in her art, but none of the fascination or coquetry sufficient to charm an audience. Between the acts it seemed to be the fashion to order coffee tea or ice cream - I indulged in two of the latter - the smallest specimen of glasses I have ever seen, really scarcely more than a thimble full & provokingly attenuated below = This Morning we crossed on a ferry boat to ___ & took a large carriage to Berck - said to be the cleanest town in the world, & I am disposed to believe it from what I saw this Morning -
Such metal [-ettles]-shining like gold - such flores [sic] & glass & china - & chests
Mrs. John P. Bigelow
Thun, Switzerland
July 12. 1859.
July 22. 1859
to
August. 31. 1860
Inclusive 36 17 pieces
fanny Thurs - July 22d 1859 -
We left Paris last Saturday Morning July 16th;
all invalids somewhat except Mrs- B- + the new bonne [?] Marguerite
I did not feel well enough to enjoy the journey to Basle where we arrived about ten in the evening [sentences crossed out] very comfortable rooms at the Three Brigs directly upon the Rhine, of which we had a fine view from our chain [?] Lee [?] windows The moonlight enhanced the beauty of the scene; but the profusion of wet dropers [?] suspended from the windows did not - Sunday afternoon we took a beautiful drive & I was delighted with the rilasueposed [?], their architecture &c - The heiss [?] style of building so far I prefer to say I have seen abroad - the houses look more like homes - the people too have a more honest and trustting [sic] expression but their costume sadly disappoints me - I think it frightful. Our first Sunday spent in Europe in
a Protestant country was refreshing ---
so different from anything we had
seen in France or Italy - Scarcely a
store was open & both streets & people
looked as if they recognized a Sabbath.
Next morning we walked about &
visited a beautiful church - at 2 1/2
took the cars for Berne, where at 10
o'clock we were shown almost to the
attic of a very clean hotel - We took
an hour's drive before leaving the next
afternoon & Mr B-called on [illegible] our
Minister - We went to see some bears.
To me it was not an interesting visit,
but the children were delighted. It was a
beautiful two hours ride in the cars to this
place, where we have a parlor & large cham
-bers on the ground floor - at the Bellevue
Hotel - the grounds are superb & very
extensive - commanding fine views from
every point - the snow clad Alps in the
distance are an unfailing source - of
wonder & admiration to me, as well as the exquisite cultivation of the country
beneath.
Saturday - We have been to call on the
Thurbers who are at a pension adjoin
-ing. I was introduced to a Mrs Halsey
whom I liked much a Mrs La[----]
& another Mrs Somebody, neither of
whom interested me. Young
Butler & Warwick who were at Mrs
Kelsons with us, arrived here last
night, the house is as full as it can
hold, but no one whom I am really
glad to see. The Borones from Staten
Island, people I have always rather
avoided - [illegible], young Porter
a nephew of "Spirit of the [---]nes" ---
a very gentlemany [sic] young German
Baron - W. H. Russell (the American
correspondent of the London Times)
& family - Mr & Mrs Megnien [sic] of
Paris, the latter an authoress -
Constantly showering the last two
days --- Grace [illegible words] & talking to
herself the other day --- "God comes first, then the angels, (then facing me)
which comes next Mama, the preachers
or the people, I forget. So we had a
thorough discussion of the subject.
Monday July .
A letter from Mother & Han today,
Mrs Morgan & Tom at Spa. Rainy
day again & so cold that we are obliged
to have fire.
[Transcriber's note: The remainder of the page consists of two columns, the right column containing the handwritten text transcribed below and the left a pasted-in (?) printed clipping of a poem from a newspaper or other publication, transcribed subsequently.]
Interlaken Friday August
A few days before us left then
we were surprised & delighted
by a visit from Tom - he
came one afternoon & left
the next, making the children
happy by giving each a toy
& devoting most of his time
to entertaining them. We
came here last Monday
in the noon boat - I was
so glad to get away, for
many reasons worth remem
bering but not writing. We
made a trip to L.
[Transcriber's note: Printed poem]
Only a Picture.
Only a picture-and is that all?
Only a picture upon the wall;
The smile so beaming, the cheek so bright,
The eye so dancing with sunny light!
I almost fancy my baby boy
Is springing to me in his pride and joy.
But 'tis only a picture upon the wall,
A silent picture, and that is all!
Only a lock of silken hair
Lying alone in its casket there!
Where is the head that in sportive glee,
Was wont to toss so careless and free?
The baby head that upon my breast
So lovingly nestled each night to rest?
Only a lock of its silken hair
Is lying alone in its casket there.
Only a shoe that is soiled and torn,
But where is the foot that shoe has worn?
The darling foot so dimpled and small,
That made music so merry in chamber and hall.
O, to catch of that little step one sound,
How wildly now would my pulses bound!
But there's only a shoe that is soiled and torn-
The foot comes no more that that shoe has worn.
Only these relics-and nothing more?
Can naught to our arms the lost restore?
Must we hopeless yearn as the years go by
For the bounding step and the beaming eye,
And of all that beauty and light and grace
So fondly cherished retain no trace,
Save these silent relics?---"O, nevermore
Will the grave to our arms the lost restore."
O rove [sic] for love when from its store
It points to these tokens and nothing more!
When the vacant hall and the silent stair
But echo the groans of its wild despair;
And from all the voices in earth and sky,
Comes back no word to its wailing cry,
Save the mournful echo---"O, nevermore
Will the grave to thy arms the lost restore."
O joy for love when it yearns no more
For that which the grave cannot restore!
When it upward stretches its drooping wings,
And in darkness and sorrow still sweetly sings
Of the brightness and bliss of that better home,
Where the lost are found and no partings come;
O joy for love, when its priceless store
There safe is garnered forevermore! the day after our arrival with the Partons
& Mrs Russell & Romaine who came from
there in the early boat to join us - Those
of the party who were hungry breakfasted at
L- and at 10 some of the party were on
horseback & Miss Parsons in the chaise
à porteur & I & baby in another on our
way to ascent a mountain where we
enjoyed a superb view & quite a decent
dinner - The ascent was not fatiguing
& well worth accomplishing - but the
descent was more grand than I fancied
& almost frightened me to death. I held
myself in the chair with one hand & to keep
baby on my lap with the other was an effort
that almost broke my legs as well as arms -
I was thankful when I was dropped at
L- & seated comfortably in a carriage on
our way home again - Jenny was good
as possible all the while, she slept almost
the entire time & cried not at all - A
man who had been a guide among
these mountains more than 30 years said
he had never seen so young a traveller on them. We were back at the "Hotel Inter
laken" to take tea with the children & I was
glad to go to bed almost as soon as they did.
Day before [Transcriber's note: Previous two words inserted with caret] Yesterday we walked up to what they term
the Pavilion with the Mordecais & some
others --- & had one of the prettiest views
imaginable. Yesterday morning I walked
to the boat with Mr B--- & saw him start
for his months tour which I hope will
be as pleasant as he anticipated. The Carring
-tons called almost as soon as I returned
to offer their services and attentions during
Mr B's absence --- but I shall not accept
many of them as newly married people
always prefer to be without a third party ---
I went to say goodbye to the Mordecais
whom I am truly sorry to lose, & then
drove with baby & the Platts to Grindel
wald --- dined at a pretty little hotel near the
Glaciers & returned to take early tea with
the children. Miss Bell from Tennessee called
[illegible] as I was walking through the village ---
She was with a large party who were to
leave in the morning --- I also met Amelia Sturges on her way up to see me, her father was
unwell which would detain them here a day or
two. I am suffering dreadfully with face ache -
Saturday August 6th.
Grace & I each took our first donkey ride
this morning with Mr. & Mrs. Caerington to
the Castle of Unspunnen the scene of Byron's
Manfred - it is now merely a large
circular stone ruin overlooking a most
exquisite valley & in face of a most imposing range of mountains - the path to it through
a thick woods & this lovely valley was as
romantic as the most ardent lores of
Byron could desire & it was easy to
people the vicinity with the imaginary
spirit which so tormented the [illegible] fortunate
Manfred. But all this could not dispel
my face ache & since my return I have
been almost distracted with it. The Parsons
all left this morning early, impatient to
get settled at Geneva. Mr Romaine called
to see me yesterday & the storm kept him
to dinner our Roman consul also favored
us - I went with Mr P to the Thersal [?] an hours in the evening, it was a dull affair, fine rooms but almost empty. Tuesday August 9th. Went to church with Sunnees [?] friend Beaiss [?] Sunday in the afternoon he coached with us to the Richliore [?] & transed me to go further, but I declined - He & Mr Carrington made an excursion to Murren (the highest village in Switzerland)yesterday & Mrs C devoted most of her time to me I was still suffering with tooth ache & am very little better today. I have been reading "Pilgrims of the Rhine" and "Manfred" Old Mrs Biggs, the Goulds & Mr Hentworth have called. Wednesday April 10th A long walk with all the children this morning - charming view & not too fatiguing to get to it. Read again Mr B's journal that I received yesterday & wrote to him this afternoon - Strolled about a little with the Carringtons towards night & am going to bed very early - My eyes ache from crying - this face ache has dispirited me completely & I have been able to accomplish nothing since Mrs B left. Thursday Aug 11th.
Grace is 7 years old today --- I have done all
for her pleasure that I could, first had 3
donkeys brought to the door & gave each
of the children an hour's ride - Poult was
frightened at first, but Jonny not at
all. Margaret baby & I followed on
behind - next we took a carriage
with a particularly amiable coach
man who allowed first one & then the
other to take the reins, & on our return to
the hotel I devoted an hour to story telling
which I think pleased them best of all - I have
been reading "The Prisoner of Chillon" since -
& the little ones are playing below.
Friday Aug 12th. Dr Bethe[---] called on me this
morning & came back to dinner - he will
bring his wife tomorrow for a few days -
I am so weary of this place and hope to get
away next week - The Dr told me his first
public recitation was the Prisoner of Chillon
and he had a decided success. We have
another heavy shower this afternoon - dull
sort of [illegible deletion] weather for the country. Saturday Aug 13th. Called at Goulds this morn
-ing - Miss Sarah sang "Why do I weep for thee"
& another that I liked very much but I
forget the name, shopped a little afterwards,
walked a little with Mrs Carrington &
this afternoon returned the Biggs's call,
but did not see them. Raining hard, so
that I can have neither my ride or walk
as anticipated.
Tuesday - Aug 16th - Received Mrs B's journal
yesterday from [empty space left in line] & found it very
interesting. Some people from Frankfort asked
me to go to the Falls of Giesbach with them,
but I did not care about it. I packed up, hoping
to get away today, but Mrs C is complaining & in
bed, & when I paid her a visit late last
evening, they had determined not to leave
before tomorrow. My German friends
had seen a good deal of Sophie Joy [?] & were
entirely disgusted with her - thought she
was a mass of affectation & [---]olly devoted
to the attentions of the other sex - she treated
ladies very rudely &c; which I think probable -
though the red headed woman who told me this, looks like a demon herself, & I should
attach but small value to her words.
Mrs --- & her sister seem very excellent
people & their boys remarkably fascinating -
the father I like too, he is decidedly hand-
-some with fine address; but rather a more
gallant husband than I should fancy.
There was a certain beautiful resignation
in the face of his wife that told me a
history - she seemed a most affectionate
Mother but I fancy ^is
much neglected by her husband. The Gould's
sent up for me to
go to the Kursal about 9 o'clock - staid
about an hour & talked with the best-
looking Man I have seen abroad - but
altogether too French for my taste - what
ideas they must have of women! that
old fool at H[---] used to talk much
in the same way. He asked to take me
home, but I pleaded my previous en
--gagement & the enchanting Gould, -
made his Sister unspeakably happy
by bequeathing this youth to her - he is
in the train of their princesse & they attach enormous importance to him. They have
also introduced me to an old bachelor
Gardiner with filthy nails & fearfully John
Bully face & figure & another Father
Savage a jolly old Irish priest; whose
kindly eyes entirely subdue the effect of his
name. It seems they were both rather ardent
in their expressions of me; & yesterday morn
-ing old G told a friend that I had sa
-luted him in passing with a smile
that was worth a hundred guineas
to his heart." Dr Bethune & family arrived
at the pension next us last evening; his
poor wife, can she enjoy this dragging
around the world? Hazeltine looks
horribly --- I imagine he drinks gambles
& does every bad thing imaginable - he has
too [sic] me so utterly worthless an expression, &
to see B[-----] Biggs in his embrace most
of the evening, entirely disgusted me with her,
I think she is about as fast a character as
I have ever met - Alice has lots of beaux
they tell me; but has some desease [sic] of the
womb & no wish to marry at present. I have spent $20 this morning in muslins -
raining hard & this is the darkest place
on a dark day that I have ever known
any thing about. I met an English clergy
man here the other day from whom I
received a note yesterday enclosing a few
little tracts for the children - he wanted
to interest me in a lad who had gone to
America to seek his fortunes & was a very
deserving youth.
Lucerne - Friday Aug 19th. Left Interlaken
Wednesday at noon with the Carringtons - nom
-inally under their care, but in reality they
were under mine - for neither spoke a word
of French, & every thing that had to be done
during the day either Margaret or I had to do.
I bought tickets for all the party while she had
the baggage weighed - & so on we managed
to get along - we soon exhausted our bread & bottle
of water & could get nothing more nourishing
until we reached this place at nearly 10 o'clock
We went to the "English House" with the C's -
it seemed too late to hunt up a Pension with
-out a gentleman, but yesterday morning we paid our bill of F30 - 40 & established
ourselves at a quiet little "Pension Suter" -
with a nice garden for the children
extending to the "Hotel Suiss" - beautiful
view of the lake & in every respect a desirable
situation - all along the road further
without the town there are boarding
houses commanding superb views; with
beautiful grounds &c - but here we are
central & it is almost like having our own
house - for there are but two other ladies
here; hideous Germans who speak French
with me, but whom I really dislike to look
at, they are so offensively ugly. I went with
the C's last evening to see the Cathedral, &
burying ground & we came home at
sundown by the side of the lake - a
charming walk. I strolled about the town
earlier in the afternoon with nurse & child
-ren, went into one or two churches &
examined the old bridge with pictures -
wrote to Mr B. at Berlin & to Mrs Morgan,
at Albany. The children are getting on
very well - thankful truly do I feel. Friday Directly after breakfast sauntered out with the children - me & Mr Bemiss & who proposed showing me around & with all the young ones at out heels we walked about the town till 12 1/2 - I am not astonished that Murray thinks the Monument to the Swiss guards the most appreciate in Europe - I have seen nothing of the kind I like so well. Another sculpture or painting has impressed me so much - the great solid rock towering above city surrounded by its graceful forest trees - the exquisite shade & seclusion of the entire spot - the old guard in his uniform - crimson & white - all combined make up an effective picture that is well worth seeing: the great Lion - the feature of it ^ the most remarkable - by Thos Waldden. A letter from Mrs Russell yesterday - Alberta is better. Lucerne Saturday Aug 21st. A [illegible] sail up the lake this morning with my little flock - since then I have written to Annie & Mrs Gould - heard Grace her lesson & am ready for my afternoon walk. The General left this morning & for myself it is great [g-in] - for now I have this cheerful little parlor & the piano at my own disposal - & no one to entertain at table but the children. Today baby is two months old; she has improved wonderfully since we left [Th--n?] & takes notice a great deal; dear darling little daughter - Heidelberg - [illegible] Muller near the Castle overlooking the Rhine, but otherwise a very stupid sort of place - the town is clean & cheerful looking - the Castle & grounds are perfect in their way - one can wander about for miles in them - find some new enchantments at every step - this is by far the most fascinating ruin I have seen in Europe - the [illegible] in every direction are pleasant & the streets delightfully shaded by long rows of trees. He met Miss Hyall who insisted on one going at once home with her, & we found Mama in the third story of a very pretty house on one of the best streets. They gave me a very attractive idea of German housekeeping or room keeping - much more cosy & comfortable than all the glass & gilding of the French, and above all more hospitable. Miss H _ is what we Yankees call a smart agreeable girl, and decidedly stylish looking. She is very anxious to find a situation as governess in Paris & I hope to be able to assist her - she would accept 200 a year & travelling expenses paid, in a family where she was entirely as "one of them." I was pleased with the grave yard attached to St Peters Church. - It looked as if tended by loving hands, & less gloomy than almost any place of the kind I have ever seen - while there I read Annie's letter that Mr B - had just found at our bankers - it told me of Aunt Eliza Tunis's death for which A letter from Nan received at Lucerne had somewhat prepared me. I have heard none of the particulars but that she suffered much towards the close - Yesterday I wrote to Beckie, also to Manea [?], who I know will feel this loss deeply & to Mrs Paine who has lost her oldest child Vaginia [?], as lovely & promising a girl of fifteen years as I ever saw. By the paper I learn of Ben Lee's [?] Heath [?] & also Annie [--mett's] - MEB knew her many years ago, & I have had a limited but pleasant acquaintance with her since my marriage. We left Lucerne Tuesday Morning Aug 31st & reached Baden Baden near 9 o'clock at night - Met the Carringtons at the Hotel Victoria & next morning we strolled around the town together & drove through the famous Black Forest to the ruin Ebersteinburg.
On the [-ond] met the Browns of P. as dressy, as affected & tiresome as ever. They came after dinner to see us as did also the Townsends who had seen our names on the list of strangers - We spent a part of the evening at the Kursaal - met Gould Hoyt & Mr Vail - took another walk next morning & left at 11 1/2 for Heidelberg - We were there before 3 o'clock, by the Gould's advice at a stupid little pension Muller [?], near the Castle it's only attraction. We left Lucerne for Baden Tuesday night arrived at Hotel Victoria 8 in the evening - First thing next morning strolled along the shady avenue leading to the Kursaal Where we were amused examining the various booths & then went into the gambling rooms & found the tables well surrounded even at that early hour. There were some bold vulgar looking women & some very beautiful - but all more or less powdered & painted & dressed most expensively.The most exquisite little hats with plumes - & white morning robes elaborately trimmed & some in superb silks; ears fingers & arms glittering with diamonds - & I was told that these Jewels & fine clothes were pretty sure to belong to women of the lowest clas -actee [?]. some of them played with great success & won piles of gold the short time we stood by. To me it was most painful to see even those already degraded creatures indulge in an occupation so vile & unwomanly. All the while at Baden I had Mrs Gray's beautiful story of the Gambler's life By Mead [?] - but I failed to recognize in any of my own that I met the least resemblance to the English Sisters. May & Maud Sutherland - I amid the many who gathered around the roulette tables I looked in vain for the Authors frail but fascinating hero - Harry Percy - There was one tall Englishman with fair wavy hair & & blue eyes, also somewhat resembled him. I was surprised by a call (one indeed two) from the Hawkshurst Townsends - the Browns also favor'd us - & Gould Hoyt & Mr Vail we met one evening at the Kursaal. On our way to Wiesbaden Saturday September we stopped a few hours at the Hotel Angleterre at Frankfurt - & of said Hotel I would warn all travellers - for the land-lord charged us just double for our Dinner
what it was worth &c what we had engaged to pay for it.
Amsterdam Friday Sep 10th - We were delighted with Wiesbaden - its charming shady walks & [--ires], gay shops & superb Kursaal, where as a general thing a more respectable class of people congregate than at Baden. The finest band I ever heard played three times a day at the Kursaal & I shall long remember the exquisite waltz that woke me from my slumbers last Sunday Morning at about seven o'clock - an inexpressible bore if the music had not been so very fine. we took a bath each day from the "Roch [?] bunnen" in the Hotel Rose" where we were staying, but I declined to drink of the waters in spite of their rumor'd resemblance to chicken broth for which I have a decided penchant. We drove to the Greek Chapel built at great cost by the duke of Nassau to contain the remains of his first wife & Russian princess - the effigy lay Hopfgarten [?] in marble Murray says is something extra - but I am a trite tired of such displays over either the living or dead & take very little pleasure in seeing them. An hours drive took us from Weisbaden to where we met the boat & [a--t] down the Rhine to Bonn in order to see the most interesting part of the river. I confess to
some disappointment as we passed houses Castle Rock or crag - each with some romantic legend attached to it = "Ehrenbreitstein with her shatter'd wall" Collentz with her "small & simple pyramid" to the brave young General Marceau whom Byron so beautiful eulogized - The Castled crag of Drachenfels which from my earliest school days I have believed to be one of the most enchanting spots upon earth - Bishop [Hotta's] [ton--] & Southey's ballad before my eyes - all failed to move me - I could not feel within me that I was looking upon anything half so beautiful or half so interesting in any respect as me own North [?] Hudson with its banks covered with elegant comfortable homes, whose legends if written would perhaps be more improving & a hundred times more romantic than all the lies & poetry that has been scribbled & sold on the subject of King Rhine _ the old humbug. We looked around Bonn before night & bought some stockings for myself at 30 cts a pair & some for the children at 12 1/2 - We staid at the Hotel Royal a poor a table as I have seen anywhere - Sour milk & horrible chocolate - bad bread & butter too. The grounds were beautiful -sloping down to the river & very extensive - There was a Monkey tied up a tree who got hold of Grace's arm & gave her a pretty hard scratch. The afternoon next day we took the cars for Duseldorf [sic] - went to the Hotel Europe & had comfortable rooms & supper - walked about & found it like all the towns in Germany - cheerful & neat with shady walks & parks - Thursday we were at the depot in good time for the Turelock [?] express to Amsterdam but in our haste got into the wrong train & were carried back to Cologne - Went to see the Cathedral & bought a box of Narinal [?] Cologne by advice of the guide who I afterwards found had imposed upon me & taken me to one of the many "pretenders to the name." We took an 11 o'clock train to Wesel a pretty little Prussian town with a Hotel less expensive & better than almost any we have found abroad. Delicious brown bread & butter & chocolate - everything good of its kind & the proprietor a gentlemany sensible sort of fellow.
The sun is in the west
The stars are on the sea,
Each kindly hand I've prest, [sic] -
And now farewell to thee!
Our cup of parting's done -
Tis the darkest I can sip,
And I've pledged them, everyone,
With my heart & with my lip - Amsterdam - Hotel Trelen - Sep 11th
More like home - Philadelphia particularly - the delicious bread & butter - the India [--tle] china & deep old times blue & white [-octelle] sets - the venetian blinds - & profusion of brass headed nails in the chairs & sofas - the perfect cleanliness of the streets & houses - the tremendous scrubbing & cleaning that I have witnessed this Saturday morning has [ap--ted] to make the resemblance more striking between this substantial quaint Dutch city & that of our Quaker ancestors. We reached here yesterday in time for dinner at the table de Cote at 4 & I tasted for the first time since leaving America a well cooked piece of roast beef - Today at breakfast I had with my chocolate buns almost as good as Mame Widderfields - Penn's city again brought to mind - we took a valet de place at 9 1/2 & went through the King's palace equal to anything I saw in Italy & superior in some respects for it had an air of comfort in some of the rooms entirely unknown to the South of Europe - the view from the Tower like all other views from high places that I have ever seen did not repay me for the fatigue of getting up to it. We went to see the house Rembrandt once owned & lived in - with his name over the door - & a very fine statue of him erected in 1851 - In the Museum we saw a great many fine pictures, nearly all of the Dutch School - the finest I ever saw was by Van der Heist "The City Guard of Amsterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of Munster, 1648 - altogether a collection of the most life like & expressive portraits imaginable.
Gerard Dou's "Night School" is remarkably fine - I had frequently seen copies of it - there was a beautiful shepherdess - by I forget whom - & some landscapes very good -
Some copies of Titian, Rubens & Raphael - We drove through the best street for private residences & to the fashionable promenade - "long & shady" - thence to the Zoological Garden where we were very much interested - we left baby & nurse & Poult in the carriage & took Sonny & Grace with us - Yesterday Poultney completed his fourth year -
Sunday Sep 12th. Went to the theatre last evening & not understanding a word of what was said found the play a great bore - Came out & found the children all getting on very well & after nursing baby went back again to see the ballet - A French [dans--use],agile & accomplished in her art, but none of the fascination or coquetry sufficient to charm an audience. Between the acts it seemed to be the fashion to order coffee tea or ice cream - I indulged in two of the latter - the smallest specimen of glasses I have ever seen, really scarcely more than a thimble full & provokingly attenuated below = This Morning we crossed on a ferry boat to ___ & took a large carriage to Berck - said to be the cleanest town in the world, & I am disposed to believe it from what I saw this Morning -
Such metal [-ettles]-shining like gold - such flores [sic] & glass & china - & chests